I seem to have trouble leaving Cambodia: I continue to book tickets to Vietnam, only to change them last-minute for another Cambodia destination. Maybe it's the cheap prices, laid-back vibe, friendly people, ora combination of these three. Either way, this behavior resulted in stops at Kampot and Koh Rong on Cambodia's coast, and I'm so glad it did!
Kampot is a small river town surrounded by cave-riddled countryside and an abundance of river spirit. I took a 'firefly cruise', and motoring upriver, beer in hand, as the sun set had already made the trip worthwhile. As darkness fell, however, the trees along the river lit up in firefly displays and, combined with the phosphorescent algae in the river twinkling like fairy dust as you brush your hands through, created a magical, otherworldly effect.
The next day I visited some local caves, where school children earn extra money by acting as guides. My guide was 14-year old Linda, who showed me secret passages to bat-filled caverns! Linda was funny, smart, mature, and had a healthy command of the English language, and I was really impressed by her. My tuk tuk driver told me the poorer children can't pay for the whole day at school so might work the caves. I think Linda has what it takes to make a bright future for herself. She's also very political, calling me 'sister' when clearly I'd be 'aunty'! :P
The next day, again changing a ticket, I packed in 10 minutes and boarded a bus to Koh Rong with Quinh, a woman I met at breakfast. This set off about 4 days of pure, hilarious adventure! She and I picked up a Swiss woman in her 50s on the boat to Koh Rong, a small beach island, and the three of us booked the last bungalow on the beach! A motley crew indeed, 2 bay area women, one Vietnamese-American in her late 30s, one white American, and Ruth: I think the bartender wasn't sure what to make of us, being so different from the average trio of 20-something blonde backpacker! Nonetheless, we explored long beach, a stretch of endless white-sand-meets-turquoise-sea after a harrowing hike over the mountain (straight-up and down, and so eroded and steep they have installed ropes for you to guide yourself on). I loved the hike, but Ruth was less amused! We also explored the regular beach, which I'll call short beach for continuity, and by explored I mean we drank fruit shakes and sun-bathed.
Quinh and I left Koh Rong for Vietnam together, spending the last night in sihoukeville. This is Cambodia's beach destination. With the beach-front bars, throngs of people, music, and revelry, this beach reminded me of the Florida beaches I grew up with. I thoroughly enjoyed our $6 fish dinner on the sand, capped with me lighting a flying paper lantern and Quinh lighting fireworks that we bought from children who harassed us while we ate.
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