The Ladakhi composting toilet

Ah the Ladakhi squatty potty! If you are using one of these, chances are you aren't paying much for your room! Honestly, I think America should have these: they would encourage a more fit and agile population! ;)

Markha Valley 1: Yurutse to Markha

Yurutse is a 1-house "hamlet" situated beneath the 4700m Ganda La pass on the Markha Trek.  The good thing about a 1-house hamlet:  All the tourists have to stay there.  It was cold and foggy, so I spent the afternoon playing cards with some Frenchies, and there were plenty of friendly Germans milling about as well.

Going over the Ganda La was a slog.  With altitude issues, the best thing about reaching a pass: You get to go DOWN the other side! After the Ganda La, the landscape quickly became hot and desert-like.  As I walked through the canyon for hours, thirsty and with tired feet, I began to wonder why I'd flown thousands of miles and paid thousands of dollars to reach the great state of...Utah.

(Damn you, Sanjay! ;)

I can has SIM card

I officially have a Kashmiri SIM card! This is quite the feat: first, I went to the phone company and was told I needed 4 photos and a copy of my passport. The photos was easy as the Kodak shop (I know!) was right by the phone store, but the copy of the passport led my to the internet cafe,  then the camera store looking for a " photocopy", and finally to a small room with an ancient copy machine and an attendant after I learned to ask for a "Xerox" copy.

After all this, the SIM card was installed, and I was told to return the NEXT DAY so it could be activated!!

One thing is certain: in Ladakh, the mobile network operates more often than the internet, so at least I can communicate with regularity now. My mom is happy :P

Pizza in Leh

Today after a Chaams dance by the monks at the local monastery, I ran into my buddy Sho from Japan and Nubra Valley, and we ventured to have some pizza.  This it the first departure from local fair, which is largely chow mein, fried rice, and variations on noodle/rice themes with light vegetables.  It wasn't bad, and it was kind of fun to try something "foreign" for a change!  After I finish this post, I plan to head to the fort on the hill above town with Sho. It's fun to meet travellers, and since Morgan and Adele, my travel pals, left today, I am happy to meet new pals! 

Tomorrow, I head to Markha Valley for 7 days of trekking and homestays with local women!  Woot, women's empowerment.

Nubra valley

2 dudes from the Czech Republic, a Japanese man, a man from Hyberdad, a man from Delhi, a Tibetan cab driver, and an American woman walk into a guest house in Nubra Valley.  The guest house owner says, "you guys fight over those 3 rooms, this room is the 'the lady'".  :)

I went to Nubra Valley, a UNESCO heritage site, for a 2-day whirlwind tour with a motley crew of total clowns.  It was beautiful, but the road was bumpy and scary and I understand now the warning about kareening off the side of Indian mountain roads!  Holy hell, a 1.25-wide road with no guard-rail and a plummet to quick dispatch.  But, happily, back in one piece.  I learned that I know less about American history and politics than I should!  I also learned that our elections make us look very religious.  Manoj, from Hyberdad, told me, "it is good you worry about abortion in elections.  It means you don't have to worry about poverty or starvation or death."  I suppose that's true...

Dogs

Leh has tons of strays
At night, when one barks, all do
Bark cacophony!

Leh!

After 30 hours of travel, I entered the delirium where the body has no idea what the "real" time is, which means it's always beer or coffee (or both) o-clock.  Then, I spied the Himalaya from the plane on the way to Leh, and I felt better! :)